This recipe, for a lager specially suited to the Canadian palate, is one advocated by Wine-Art Sales Ltd., of Box 2701, Vancouver 8, B.C.
1 six Imperial gallon primary fermentation vessel (plastic preferred), 1 five Imperial gallon plastic or glass carboy and fermentation lock, 1 five-foot syphon tube,
1 plastic sheet (1 yd. sq.) to cover primary vessel, 1 Specific Gravity or Brix hydrometer and testing jar, 1 stainless steel or enamel vessel, not less than 1 Imperial gallon, 1 wooden or stainless steel spoon, 1 bottle capper for crown caps, 5 dozen beer bottles, tall or stubby, 1 immersion-type thermometer.
5 Imperial gallons of water
1 2 / lb. tin of light barley malt extract
2 ozs. Branding or Ouster hops / oz. Kent finishing hops
4 lb. of Corn sugar (Dextrose) 1 teaspoon citric acid 2-3 teaspoons of salt / teaspoon yeast energiser / teaspoon special beer finings 1 teaspoon heading liquid Lager beer yeast or ale yeast note: The addition of one teaspoon of ascorbic acid at time of bottling will reduce the hazard of oxidation
Be sure to save two full cups of corn sugar for bottling; then make sure your yeast starter is ready to use. Boil as much of the water as possible. Naturally, this will depend on the size of the container you have, but not less than one gallon. Along with the water you should boil the malt extract, 2 oz. of hops (broken up and tied in cheesecloth), the salt and citric acid. Simmer very gently for 1-2 hours with a lid on to reduce evaporation. As you remove this from the heat, add the / oz. of Kent hops which can remain in the "wort" during the primary fermentation. Pour this hot wort over the corn sugar (minus the two cups, remember). Stir to dissolve the sugar and add the balance of the water to make up a total of five Imperial gallons.
Cover the "wort" with a sheet of plastic tied down and allow the mixture to cool to around 60 degrees F. This may take up to 12 hours, so don't hold your breath. The fermentation vessel should be in a place where the temperature will remain between 55 and 65 degrees F. When the "wort" is cool, take a Specific Gravity reading to make sure it is between 33 and 38. (The starting gravity should be 30 to 40, and the beer should finish at 0, i.e. 1.035 to 1.000). If it is not correct, you can adjust it by adding more sugar or water, depending on whether it is high or low.
Now add the active beer yeast and cover once again with the plastic sheet. After about four or five days of active ferment you can start checking the Specific Gravity to see how the ferment is progressing. It will probably take six to ten days to get down to between 5 to 10 (1.010) depending on the temperature. When it gets to this point, skim off the floating hops, add the yeast energiser, and siphon the wort into the carboy. Don't fill the carboy too full because you need room to add the "finings" at this point. Dissolve the half teaspoon of finings in one cup of very hot water (not boiling) and pour this on top of the beer in the carboy and stir in thoroughly with the handle end of your wooden spoon. The carboy should now be filled to within two or three inches of the fermentation lock which should be properly attached at this time.
Now that your beer is in the carboy with the fermentation lock attached and placed in a cool (55 to 65 degrees F.), place away from the light. It is safe even if you don't get to look at it for up to three weeks. Under normal circumstances, it will be clear and the gravity down to zero (1.000) in about ten days. Don't worry about the extra time involved in making beer this way, inasmuch as your beer is ageing in the carboy and will be ready that much sooner after bottling. In any case, when these two things occur, i.e. the brew is reasonably clear and the gravity is down to 1,000, the time has come for bottling.
Now take those two cups of sugar saved from your 4 lb. Siphon off about two pints of beer into a clean saucepan, warm on the stove, and dissolve the two cups of sugar to make a beer sugar syrup. Be sure the saucepan is big enough because the mixture will foam all over the stove if it's not, and annoy your wife somewhat. When this is ready, siphon off the rest of the beer into your clean primary fermenter, being careful not to disturb the yeast sediment.
Save your yeast. At this time you can get your yeast back for your next brew by swirling the sediment in the bottom of the carboy and, using a small funnel, pour it into a clean beer bottle and cap immediately. Place this bottle in the crisper part of your refrigerator where it won't freeze. The next time you make beer you will not have to grow your yeast but merely take this bottle from the refrigerator, open it and add it to the "wort" when the wort is properly cooled. This yeast starter will be good in the refrigerator for approximately three to five weeks in the case of Lager yeast and two to three weeks for Ale yeast.
Now that we have the clear beer in the primary fermenter and the gravity is 1.000, stir in the syrup, making sure it is thoroughly distributed, but do not aerate the beer too much. At the same time you can be stirring in the teaspoonful of Heading Liquid. The gravity of this mixture should be approximately 1.005. We will assume that you have already prepared your five dozen bottles, that they are thoroughly clean and standing in a convenient place to be filled to within one inch of the cap. It does not matter if they are wet inside, in fact, it may make it easier to fill them by reducing the foaming. Cap them immediately and place in a temperature of 60 to 70 degrees F. for ten days and then chill and try the results of your labour.
For Ale use the same recipe with the addition of 1 oz. of gypsum, and Ale instead of Lager beer yeast.
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